Ireland presents a captivating tableau of contrasting experiences, where stunning natural beauty mingles with stark reminders of a troubled past. Our recent 10-week overseas journey brought us to this enchanting island, where we embarked on a 29-day counterclockwise exploration that revealed both expected treasures and unexpected delights.
Our Irish adventure began with an unpleasant surprise at Dublin Airport. Having secured what seemed like an unbelievable deal of $18 per day for our rental car, we were blindsided when the Avis representative informed us that in Ireland, we needed a written letter of insurance—something our American Express coverage didn’t provide. Despite showing proof of insurance on my phone, they insisted we purchase their coverage at €58 daily plus a €31 fee for crossing into Northern Ireland. Our carefully budgeted $522 rental suddenly ballooned to nearly $2,500, later negotiated down to $1,800. Adding insult to injury, we later discovered that our AmEx insurance specifically excluded Ireland—a costly oversight on our part.
Belfast, our first stop, presented a sobering introduction to Ireland’s troubled history. While the City Hall complex and Queen’s University boasted impressive architecture, the hop-on-hop-off bus tour was dominated by narratives of violence and conflict—pointing out bombing sites, places where “martyrs” died, and memorials to those killed during The Troubles. The numerous murals commemorating the dead created a somewhat oppressive atmosphere, despite attractions like the Titanic Museum built near the shipyards where the ill-fated vessel was constructed.
The Giant’s Causeway, Northern Ireland’s premier natural attraction, proved to be one of those “tick the box” experiences—interesting geologically but overwhelmed by tourists even in early May. The biting cold and fierce winds made the experience less enjoyable than anticipated. In contrast, the nearby Bushmills Inn provided a warm, welcoming respite with excellent food in a beautifully renovated historic building.
Our journey truly came alive when we ventured off the beaten path. Dunluce Castle, with its dramatic clifftop location and Game of Thrones connection (it served as the backdrop for the Iron Islands), offered a much more intimate and authentic experience than the crowded Causeway. With fewer visitors, we could fully appreciate the historic ruins and spectacular coastal views without feeling rushed.
As we crossed from Northern Ireland into the Republic, the only noticeable change was the addition of Gaelic on road signs. The Wild Atlantic Way provided a stunning backdrop as we explored charming towns like Donegal, where we visited a remarkably intact 15th-century castle that actually resembled what one imagines when thinking of castles—thick stone walls, vaulted wooden ceilings, and beautifully furnished rooms.
Some of our most memorable experiences came from unplanned stops. In Bundoran, the last town in County Donegal before County Leitrim, we spent a delightful hour walking along the coastline, listening to waves crash against rocks and enjoying the simple pleasure of a beautiful shoreline. Later, the Gaelic Chieftain metal sculpture overlooking the hills near Lough Key offered another unexpected treasure—a life-sized impressionist rendering of a chieftain on horseback commemorating the 1599 Battle of Curlew Pass.
Roscommon became a highlight of our trip, offering a perfect blend of history, natural beauty, and genuine Irish hospitality. The fourteen-acre Loughnaneane Park with its walking trails, wooden sculptures, and the ruins of Roscommon Castle provided a peaceful retreat with no entrance fees or formal supervision—just the freedom to explore at our leisure. The local Murray pub (though the bartender insisted the proper local pronunciation was “Murry”) offered authentic interaction with locals, including colorful characters like the “stereotypical drunk Irishman” who brought a “wee heater” to our chilly hotel room.
Our explorations of ancient mounds and ring forts around Tulsk offered insights into Ireland’s prehistoric past, including the legendary Queen Maeve who apparently waged a bloody war over stolen cattle. The Famine Museum in Strokestown provided sobering context to Ireland’s devastating history, with exhibitions detailing the horrific impact of the Great Famine and the mass emigration that followed—including the poignantly named “coffin ships” that transported starving Irish to America, many of whom didn’t survive the journey.
Throughout our travels in Ireland, we were struck by the pervasive reminders of historical trauma—famine memorials, castles built for protection rather than pleasure, and narratives of invasion and resistance. Yet despite this troubled past, the Irish people demonstrated remarkable warmth, resilience, and humor. Their ability to acknowledge their painful history while embracing visitors with genuine hospitality left a profound impression on us, making our journey through Ireland a truly profound experience.
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