Our ten-week journey through Europe recently concluded with an extensive exploration of Ireland, completing a circuit that began on the east coast and took us through Northern Ireland, the Great Atlantic Way, the southern coast, and finally back to the eastern coast of Ireland before finishing in Dublin. After our adventures in England, Wales, Scotland, Portugal, and Spain earlier in the trip, the contrast between Mediterranean and Celtic cultures was striking.
Our travels through Ireland revealed a countryside rich with rolling hills, dramatic coastlines, and a fascinating blend of ancient and modern history. We established ourselves in various accommodations ranging from city apartments to rural farmhouses, each offering a unique perspective on Irish life. One particularly memorable stay was in a rustic farmhouse outside New Ross, where country roads, horse farms, and the occasional tractor passing by created an authentic rural Irish experience. Though cozy, this accommodation had its quirks, including a washing machine housed in a shed with a dirt floor that proved a bit too creepy for regular use, leading us to discover the surprisingly nice laundromat at the local Tesco supermarket.
Our exploration of Irish towns revealed both hidden gems and occasional disappointments. While Waterford didn’t captivate us as expected (perhaps influenced by the gloomy weather), Kilkenny absolutely charmed us with its medieval castle featuring a magnificent long hall with vaulted ceilings. The town itself was equally enchanting with its “slips” – narrow pedestrian alleyways reminiscent of Edinburgh’s closes or Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley – lined with shops and restaurants.
Another unexpected delight was the seaside town of Bray, with its beautiful boardwalk, abundant swans, and colorful waterfront homes well-maintained for vacationing Dubliners arriving by train.
Throughout our journey, we encountered numerous historic sites that deepened our understanding of Ireland’s complex history. From the Hook Head Lighthouse with its dramatic rocky coastline to the Kilruddery Estate showcasing both the grandeur and challenges of maintaining historic properties, each location added layers to our appreciation of Ireland’s heritage. We found ourselves frequently encountering famine memorials throughout the country, sobering reminders of Ireland’s painful past that continues to shape its national identity.
Our trip concluded with several days in Dublin, though not without drama. Our carefully selected Airbnb turned out to be an unauthorized rental in a building that prohibited short-term stays, leaving us stranded on the front steps with our luggage. This unexpected turn forced us to pivot to a significantly more expensive hotel, though it did come with advantages including a substantial breakfast buffet and proximity to major attractions that eliminated transportation costs. Dublin itself rewarded us with Trinity College’s magnificent campus and the famous Book of Kells (though seeing just a single page of the manuscript was somewhat anticlimactic after the extensive build-up), St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle with its lovely walled garden, and the lively Temple Bar district where we wisely heeded advice to enjoy the atmosphere without paying premium prices inside the namesake pub.
What we’ve learned through our travels is the importance of flexibility and resilience. Whether facing accommodation challenges, unexpected weather, or simply adjusting expectations when certain attractions don’t quite meet expectations, the ability to pivot gracefully is perhaps the most valuable travel skill. As we return to our home base in Tennessee to regroup, write, and plan our next adventures, we carry with us not just memories of spectacular landscapes and historic sites, but also the confidence that comes from successfully navigating the unpredictable nature of extended travel.
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